Does Jiangnan Cloth Clothes Survive in the Crisis of Fans Turnover after Children's Clothes Rollover

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Author: Shen Qing

[As the first mainland designer brand group listed in Hong Kong, the success of Jiangnan Clothes depends on the fan economy - 4.9 million members contributed more than 70% of sales.]

Just after the 10th anniversary, the children's clothing brand jnby by JNBY of Jiangnan Cloth Clothing "rolled over".

A week ago, a netizen posted an article on a social networking website saying that he found words such as "Welcome to hell", "let me touch you" and dark pictures on the children's clothes. Later, many netizens revealed that in addition to jnby JNBY, the publicity picture of Pomme de terre, a youth brand owned by Jiangnan Cloth, was also pointed out that the photography style and shape were beyond the scope of childlike innocence, with sexual hints and even pedophilia tendencies.

After the mother group saw these indecent pictures, Chaoyang returned home and immediately found the jnby by JNBY clothes she bought for her children. Although no similar patterns were found, these unknown patterns became an indelible knot in her heart. In the past, she felt that the fashionable design was no longer "fragrant". "It really doesn't look like a simple design. It feels offended and challenges our aesthetics and bottom line. Are these pictures suitable for children's clothes?"

On September 23, jnby by JNBY official micro blog issued a statement saying that "the commodity series involved have been completely removed from the shelves at the first time, relevant publicity materials have been revoked, and a special team has been set up to start self-examination." However, angry parents did not buy it. They questioned Jiangnan clothes on the issue of clothing printing, and self-examined and disclosed on major social platforms. Of course, late apologies can no longer recover losses. On September 24, Jiangnan Buyi closed down 13.21%, with its market value shrinking by 1.183 billion Hong Kong dollars.

As the public opinion continues to ferment, on the evening of September 26, according to the "West Lake Release" microblog, the relevant departments in Hangzhou West Lake District have interviewed Jiangnan Clothes, instructing the enterprises to immediately remove the children's clothes and clothes of the same type, return the sold children's clothes without reason, and set up an investigation team to investigate the incident. On September 27, the share price of Jiangnan Buyi fell all the way, and dropped 11.35% in the afternoon.

　 Inadequate creative supervision

"Little Jiangnan" is the nickname of fans for jnby by JNBY. In fact, its size is not small, with annual sales exceeding 600 million yuan.

As the first mainland designer brand group listed in Hong Kong, the success of Jiangnan Clothes depends on the fan economy - 4.9 million members contributed more than 70% of the sales. The top three brands are JNBY, CROQUIS (sketch) and jnby JNBY, which correspond to women's wear, men's wear and children's wear respectively.

With outstanding style and fashionable design, jnby by JNBY, which was hatched in 2011, attracted many Baoma's attention. In Chaoyang's view, children's wear brands in mainstream shopping malls in China are generally childish. jnby JNBY is one of the few brands that seems to have a sense of design. "Some young mothers are keen on parent-child clothes. They want to dress their children as trendy dolls and emphasize independence, which may also be one of the reasons why it is popular."

It is the habit of many Jiangnan cloth clothing fans to go to the children's clothing line to pick up some clothes for children after the main line. In some shopping malls, the stores of Jiangnan cloth clothing brands are adjacent in location and similar in style, which makes it convenient for consumers who prefer this kind of tonality to "catch all" the whole family's wardrobe.

It is the loyal fans of this group of "Krypton Gold" who are most puzzled and disappointed with the brand's "Mystery Operation" after the indecent patterns were exposed. The key point that makes them angry is that these elements are almost "exclusive" for children's clothing lines, which have not appeared in adult series and have been running for several years. In the flagship store of jnby JNBY Tmall, the styles with controversial patterns have disappeared, and are replaced by styles such as large color block splicing, solid color printing and dyeing.

According to Chaoyang observation, fans who like Jiangnan cloth clothes can be roughly summarized as forest, neutral, dark, etc. These consumers have low acceptance of patterns and prefer unique tailoring styles. "So they may have compensation psychology when buying clothes for their children. They tend to choose clothes with patterns and feel more lively."

These ambiguous patterns at least exposed the lack of creative supervision of Jiangnan Clothing Group on its brands. Some insiders also questioned that "the drawings of children's clothing design, including English copy, must be reviewed. It is difficult not to make people associate themselves with the controversial words and patterns produced by such a large enterprise as Jiangnan Clothes."

　 Strike depowmerization

"Did Jiangnan Buyi not notice the designer's problem, or did they clearly notice and let the designer design like this?" Many persistent parents want an explanation, and "de dusting and re stepping" is the first step in their protest.

As a representative of Hangzhou style women's clothing, Jiangnan cloth clothing was once a star stock in the clothing industry, and also a "light of domestic goods" in the mouth of fans.

Only two months ago, it also experienced a highlight moment. Three brands under it announced new spokesmen. Zhou Xun, the "film queen" of Sanjin, became the spokesman of high-end women's wear LESS, which was also the first local women's wear brand she endorsed. Subsequently, the strong rebound in the earnings of various brands and the optimization of retail performance drove the share price of Jiangnan Buyi to a record high.

According to the financial report, as of the end of June this year, the total revenue of Jiangnan Cloth Garments reached 4.126 billion yuan in fiscal year 2021, with 1931 stores, including 470 jnby JNBYs. The growth rate of 48% is also far higher than that of the core brand JNBY, which is 30.5%, and the sketch of men's clothing brands, which is 20.2%, becoming the growth pole in the group matrix.

However, this incident has disrupted the "Little Jiangnan" and Jiangnan cloth clothing's rapid progress. Its various scandals have started one after another, including the lack of design ability. In 2018, there were only four children's wear designers; From the artist cooperation series of sketches to the creative short film of LESS to the clothing design of JNBY, they have all fallen into the question of plagiarism.

Boosted by the popularity of similar styles and e-commerce consumption, the pressure of Jiangnan Clothes to maintain its market share has increased sharply. In terms of its most valued member operations, although the number of members is huge, the active accounts only account for 8.78%, about 430000. What is more fatal is that as a design oriented garment enterprise, its investment in product design and R&D departments has decreased year by year.

In fiscal year 2016, Jiangnan Clothes invested 56.7 million yuan in product design and R&D departments, accounting for 3.0% of the year's revenue. After five years, this figure dropped to 23.907 million yuan, a decrease of 8.78 million yuan over the same period of the previous year. The design and R&D costs cut by half also foreshadowed the imminent derailment of this high-speed train in Jiangnan Buyi.

In the competitive local clothing industry, if you want to gain an advantage in the high-quality and niche track, design power is the key in the final analysis. "But now some designer brands are too 'alternative', emphasizing alternative, and the trend has gone awry, which does not mean that they can break away from ethical and moral constraints." Chaoyang said.

After encountering the biggest public opinion crisis, whether these high premium clothes, which are often thousands of yuan, can maintain the private domain flow and fan economy, Jiangnan Cloth Clothing is facing a desperate battle. The high degree of overlap among the users of its three major brands may make the sequela of "losing fans" more severe.