Original title: Still watching PAF? More Korean pioneer brands are making efforts
Reprinted from: 1626 Selected Trends
Speaking of regional fashion, every group once carried the banner. Yoji Yamamoto, famous for "dropping a bomb", whose book has been read repeatedly; "Georgians" taking Eastern Europe as the entry point and then exporting to the fashion industry in reverse; There are also Vietnamese designers who mentioned earlier that they are "stabilizing and improving"...
Korea has always attracted the attention of all over the world by supporting the overall situation with K-POP, maintaining a good exposure, and Korean fashion brands growing up in this environment are also making steady efforts.
Today, we will select several brands to see what forces are opening up in the fashion industry after POST ARCHIVE ACTION, Jiyong Kim and other brands.
JUNTAE KIM
LVMH Prize is undoubtedly one of the best ways for academic designers to become famous. Juntae Kim, who graduated from Central Saint Martin, also has a deep understanding of this.
Although he is famous for men's clothing, his early learning experience in women's clothing made him more thorough about the combination of design and format, and found a suitable starting point between the two.
During the Renaissance and Rococo period, the society's esteem for tight corsets reached its peak. This inverted triangle structure of women's bras even once affected the aesthetics of men's clothing, until after the French Revolution, this aesthetic was identified as a symbol of decadent culture, and then was boycotted.
Juntae Kim discovered its hourglass shape and whale bone structure in the process of studying historical clothing. As a piece of art that condensed the aesthetics of the Renaissance, Juntae Kim Corset For inspiration, it is combined with men's shirts and other items to give the old texture and narrative style.
It is not only the iconic hourglass format of the shirt, but also the gorgeous decoration advocated by the Baroque period was also used by Juntae Kim.
Different from most men's clothing styles, Juntae Kim uses a large number of parting lines and tight folds to decorate modern men's clothing such as leather jackets and trousers.
The laser cut hollow printing has appeared many times, which is integrated into women's dress aesthetics to a certain extent, and balances the complexity of the design with the method of gender mobility.
If the abandonment of tight corsets is a sign of the rise of modernist aesthetics and the importance of dress functionality, Juntae Kim's attitude towards this piece with humanistic attributes is to 'discover it and use it moderately'.
CMMAWEAR
It is no longer an individual case that personal influence drives brands. We will not repeat the grievances between Kenjima, the "ancestor of Vibe", and Gizmo here.
The famous clothing blogger Gizmo radiates his brand Cmmawear with his personal aesthetic, and also integrates his life experience in many places. He integrates the ten years' sensory experience of living in Tokyo into the design, and applies it to multiple scenes. The sense of function has become the anchor point of brand development.
Based on the crowded urban structure of Tokyo, create a multi pocket storage design that is convenient for commuting; Multi cut shirts connected by hand stitching; The crease texture that highlights the sense of practicality and the machete jacket that is more than half premium...
G The piece made by izmo is indeed It has good wearability and online design and tailoring, Cmmawear Its overall tonality is more like a Japanese and Korean street wear atlas.
Through Cmmawea r The improved balaclava hat has a more relaxed and open shape. The hand-made knitted hood is not only suitable for the temperature in Tokyo and Seoul, but also adjusted based on the wear experience of Gizmo himself, making it more comfortable and stylish.
The functional design drives the sense of urban relaxation. Compared with the strong concept support of Juntae Kim brand, Cmmawear is more like an open wardrobe of Gizmo himself, and the overall aesthetic is interspersed with the rhythm of Raf Simons and Helmut Lang's men's clothing.
Merely Made
Compared with the first two brands, Merely Made is a little simple. Especially in the design of these two seasons, there are no special prints or patterns. Merely Made seems determined to develop the 'texture' to the end.
The whole series of SS23 adopts the warm earth color, combined with the patterns of plant elements. Merely Made simply chose cotton and linen fabrics, presenting a non artificial texture.
With the theme of soil and love, try to use natural elements in the series development, and create daily items such as shirts, wide leg pants, etc. with oversized loose version.
Merely Made also reproduces the classic traditional pants of Southeast Asia, presenting a loose atmosphere on the basis of modern aesthetics.
Merely Made tries to make the clothes look natural visually, avoiding obvious seams and special structures. In details, decorative burrs and quilting process are used to improve the completion and emphasize the texture.
Whether supported by personal aesthetics or tailoring concepts, Korean fashion brands have undoubtedly always maintained a stable pace of play and renewal, and have long influenced the aesthetics of Asia and other regions.
What Korean brands have you paid attention to for a long time? Please share with us in the comments area.
