For each major fashion house, the role of creative director is particularly subtle in the brand's organizational structure. The position of creative director is not limited to the output of ideas, but more importantly, it is to establish a new fashion style and aesthetic system for the brand, and then establish a closer relationship with the current.
With the popularity of the model of guest designers among major brands and the growing trend, Lanvin, a century old French fashion house, has finally started a new round of brand image transformation.
Lanvin 2023 SS Campaign Some time ago, Bruno Sialelli, the creative director who has been in charge of Lanvin for four years, announced his resignation: "I am very proud of my achievements in Lanvin in the past four years, and thank Lanvin and my team, who accompanied me through this great adventure with their unique talent and dedication."
Bruno Sialelli At the beginning of March, Lanvin displayed the brand's autumn 2023 series in Paris as the last ready to wear series under Bruno Sialelli's guidance, Bruno Sialelli traced back the historical archives of the brand for more than 130 years, and drew inspiration from them. After inheriting classic elements and blending modern design language, Lanvin 2023 autumn ready to wear ingeniously demonstrated elegant and romantic classicism, balanced with new design language, and won unanimous praise both inside and outside the industry.
Lanvin 2023 Fall This season also seems to indicate that Bruno Sialelli, after four years of brand reform, will bid farewell to this century old fashion house with a gesture of returning to the origin.
Lanvin 2019 FW Bruno Sialelli takes charge of Lanvin's first series As Lanvin's Deputy General Manager said, "Lanvin is ready to turn a new page. When we re conceive the brand, we embrace the values that Jeanne Lanvin instilled in it more than 130 years ago. We position the brand as a pioneer of fashion and culture in this extraordinary and inspiring era of change."
Since joining Lanvin from Loewe in 2019, Bruno Sialelli has experienced three high-level changes and worked under different frameworks. Initially, Jean Philippe Hecquet, the then CEO, was appointed as the creative helmsman, and then worked under the guidance of Arnaud Bazin. In December 2021, Siddhartha Shukla, who was appointed as the deputy general manager of Lanvin, became the new leader of Bruno Sialelli.
When Bruno Sialelli took the helm of Lanvin, Lanvin Group's revenue reached a new high in 2022, among which the sales of core brand Lanvin rose by 67% to nearly 122 million euros. However, Lanvin's strong growth is inseparable from Bruno Sialelli's efforts to embrace young consumers.
Lanvin Group will be listed on December 15, 2022 Among them, the representative one is the Curb shoe that appeared on Lanvin's autumn and winter 2020 show. The appearance of Curb means the beginning of Bruno Sialelli leading Lanvin to explore the field of street fashion.
Lanvin 2020 Fall “Curb” Sneakers With the popularity of Travis Scott, Virgil Abloh and other fashion opinion leaders, Curb has become a phenomenal footwear item in the past two years with the help of star effect, which has gradually brought Lanvin's brand image closer to the high-end street, and has become more and more popular in the trend.
Travis Scott / Virgil Abloh
Travis Scott / Virgil Abloh Lanvin, who has enjoyed the success, will join hands with the Los Angeles fashion brand Gallery Dept in 2021 under the leadership of Bruno Sialelli. Launched the co branded capsule series, and hired Generation Z idol and rapper Offset to shoot a promotional catalogue for the series. Lanvin's ambition to seize the youth cultural front is undoubtedly demonstrated.
Lanvin x Gallery Dept。 As can be expected, this co branded series was once again a great success, attracting consumers in different fields and circles, and further consolidating Lanvin's leading position in the current fashion industry, driven by a group of celebrities.
Drake / G-Dragon In the Lanvin 2022 spring/summer series, Bruno Sialelli completely abandoned Lanvin's consistent brand genes and cooperated with DC's popular IP Batman to create a group of items full of childlike interest and fun. This surprise presentation also became a topic of discussion in that year.
Lanvin 2022 SS For Lanvin, Bruno Sialelli is a brand worthy of the name of "popular model maker". Although he is low-key and different from other star designers, Bruno Sialelli is re imagining the brand code with his modern perspective to inject fresh blood and vitality into Lanvin.
Under the dual pressure of commercialization and popularity, Bruno Sialelli's performance in Lanvin can be described as brilliant, but with the decline of street craze and the fading of star effect, Lanvin is facing the depletion of propelling fuel.
Lanvin x Gallery Dept。 2.0 In particular, compared with Albert Elbaz, Lanvin's former creative director, Bruno Sialelli did not inject a distinctive style into Lanvin's brand DNA when he took the helm. Like fireworks, Lanvin during the Bruno Sialelli period had enough bright spots, but fell into silence again after the brilliance.
Alber Elbaz Many people believe that the brand image of contemporary Lanvin was created by Albert Elbaz. From 2001 to 2015, Under the leadership of Albert Elbaz, Lanvin has pulled back the decline and even ushered in the peak period. In contrast, although Bruno Sialelli tried to make a drastic image transformation and try to cater to the mainstream market, he did not create a brand gene that is brand new and highly symbolic.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2021 series released in Shanghai Yuyuan Garden In other words, Lanvin may want more in today's business dominated fashion industry.
The departure of Bruno Sialelli is largely due to Lanvin's subsequent changes. The adjustment measures for brand development are gradually clear with the vacancy of creative director.
Bruno Sialelli According to Lanvin, the brand is currently shifting its creative focus and introducing two new concept units. The first one is called Lanvin Lab, which, like its name, is an "experimental space", inviting prestigious designers in the industry to incubate ideas with emerging designers, that is, the popular guest designer model.
In recent years, the mode that brands invite guest designers to lead product series has become more and more frequent. Since Jean Paul Gaultier announced his retirement, designers in each quarter have become a topic of concern. From the finalization of Abe Qiandengshi and Olivier Rousting, to the subsequent accession of Glenn Martens and Haider Ackermann, they have brought unexpected breakthroughs to Jean Paul Gaultier every quarter.
Jean Paul Gaultier by Haider Ackermann Recently, Moncler Genius gathered a number of designers to open a new creative mode in a diversified form; Dior asked ERL designers to explore art and street possibilities; Louis Vuitton brought Colm Dillane as the first guest designer for transition.....
Moncler Genius 2023
Dior by ERL
Louis Vuitton by Colm Dillane In the current era of frequent changes in fashion trends, the guest designer model enables brands to find a way to break the bottleneck of style rigidity and creativity, balance aesthetic fatigue with freshness, and skillfully cater to business and market from different designers' creative perspectives.
As Julie Gilhart, a senior fashion practitioner, said: "Fashion always reminds us that nothing is eternal, and our industry prospers due to changes."
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However, the disadvantages of guest designers are also obvious. The flow of designers and the constant change of style cannot establish a stable image for the brand. Especially for a century old fashion house like Lanvin, the fresh style will certainly capture new consumers, but it will also lose long-term loyal fans of the brand.
Therefore, Lanvin's selection criteria and authority for designers will become an important decision for brand development.
Lanvin's second strategic direction is to develop new accessories and leather goods departments. In the 67% sales growth last year, leather products accounted for more than half of Lanvin's global revenue. Leather goods and accessories are the pillars of the brand. The next development of Lanvin's creative matrix is bound to revolve around it.
Lanvin Pencil Cat Bag
Lanvin Winter 2023 Bag With the launch of Lanvin Lab and the re emphasis on leather goods and accessories, a new chapter on Lanvin is also opening while promoting the spirit of cooperation and innovation.
Lanvin Spring 2022 Who is the next leading brand designer? What styles will be integrated into the brand? Albert Elbaz, the former creative director, may have expressed Lanvin's and others' hopes for the brand's future designers:
"Designers become creative directors, and we become image producers, to ensure that everything looks beautiful in photos. Make sure that the screen is full of screaming babies, loud enough to do, loud enough to be cool. But I prefer to talk quietly, more profound and lasting."
(The picture is from the network)
