There is also the end of the "long love" story between fashion brands and designers.
On March 20, Beijing time, Italian fashion brand Moschino announced that Jeremy Scott, the creative director, was leaving. It has been 10 years since he took charge of the creative power. Before the release of the resignation statement, he was considered as one of the designers who have served for a single brand for the longest time.
February 2023 Milan Fashion Week The autumn and winter series press conference held on was the last series created by Jeremy Scott for Moschino. Massimo Ferretti, CEO of Aeffe Group, the parent company of Moschino, said that Jeremy Scott inherited the heritage of Franco Moschino, the founder, and brought a unique and fun design.
Before entering Moschino, Jeremy Scott had already become famous in the fashion industry. He was born in Kansas City, Missouri, the United States, and experienced twists and turns in his childhood. He studied fashion design at the Pratt College of Art in New York. After his attempt to find a fashion job in Paris in 1996 was frustrated, he founded the brand of the same name in 1997.
Bold, pompous, funny, provocative but with a sense of humor, Jeremy Scott's design quickly stood out. Before officially entering Moschino, the brand of the same name has cooperated with Adidas, Swatch, Longchamp and other brands for several hot co branded series.
When he was appointed as creative director of Moschino in October 2013, Jeremy Scott quickly carried out a drastic reform of the brand. Franco Moschino founded the brand in 1987, but he died in 1994 at the age of 44. The early departure of the founder is undoubtedly a blow to the brand in the rising stage. Despite continuous support from the Group, Moschino has long lost its way.
Although Jeremy Scott's design is not similar to Franco Moschino's, both of them are keen on mixing various elements with a strong sense of contrast in clothing. Inspired by fast food culture, he transformed McDonald's uniforms, combined baroque style with street fashion, and let models wear inflatable clothes to the extension booth.
This design made Jeremy Scott criticized by many critics and netizens at the beginning of his entry into Moschino, accusing him that his clothes were totally illogical and destroyed the style established by the founder. But with the rise of social media, people gradually began to like this extreme exaggeration and can show narcissistic personality clothes.
When a large number of these clothes were selected into the 2019 MET GALA "Camp: Notes on Fashion" exhibition, it means that Jeremy Scott's design has been recognized by the industry, and he is basically bound to Moschino. He transformed Moschino from an embarrassing brand into a traffic harvester on social media.
But now he chose to leave, Jeremy Scott did not disclose his future career plan, and Moschino did not announce his successor. The biggest question in the industry is what Jeremy Scott should do next.
One guess is that he will move to a larger luxury goods group as a creative director. Givenchy is currently creative director Matthew M. Recently, it was reported that Williams was about to complete his appointment. During his tenure, Williams did not drive the rapid growth of brand performance. Jeremy Scott's show making ability may bring more attention to Givenchy, although their styles are quite different.
But after Alexander McQueen, Riccardo Tisci and Matthew M. After Williams, besides the little black dress worn by Hepburn, who still remembers Givenchy's elegant image?
Another possibility is that Jeremy Scott will focus on personal brand. This is also the choice of many designers after leaving the big group. Although it is difficult to compare the popularity and market share of designers' personal brands with those of big group brands, many designers still choose the latter between profit and creative freedom.
In any case, Jeremy Scott has enough capital to go up or turn to personal brand. The real problem is that it is not easy for Moschino to find a successor comparable to him.
Jeremy Scott brought a lot of exposure, but from the fiscal year 2014 to the fiscal year 2022 when he took office, the revenue of Aeschino parent company Aeffe Group only increased from 252 million euros to 352 million euros. Sources said that Moschino accounted for about 70% of the group's total sales.
The reality is that, except for the huge exposure brought by each fashion show, Moschino has not been completely captured and converted into sales.
On social media, netizens often ask whether Moschino is a luxury brand or a luxury brand. Where to buy is also a question that is often asked. It was not until 2022 that Aeffe Group announced to officially take over all Moschino stores in China and promote the strategy of direct marketing expansion. However, it has made too many out of circle initiatives in the marketing field.
It is easy to see that Aeffe Group is concentrating more resources to promote Moschino transformation. However, with the departure of Jeremy Scott, its transformation plan can be smoothly promoted and has been marked with a question mark.
