Variety details
Mechanical watch
Timing instruments of mechanical vibration system, such as pendulum clock, cycloidal clock, etc. Its working principle is to use a vibration system with constant period and continuous vibration. Multiply the vibration period of the vibration by the number of vibration times, which is equal to the elapsed time. Time=the period of the vibration week × the number of vibration times. It is generally composed of energy, gear train, escapement mechanism, vibration system, pointer mechanism and additional mechanism. Power -- clockwork or heavy hammer, which provides energy for the working of the mechanical clock. The speed increase of the gear train makes it possible to run for several days at a time. The escapement mechanism makes the timing frequency of the clock conform to people's "second" concept. The rudder or the pendulum wheel controls the speed of the clock, and the time (hour) telling mechanism tells people what time it was just ringing.
Electronic watch
The basic part consists of electronic components. The working principle of electronic clocks is designed according to the physical phenomenon of "electricity generates magnetism and magnetism generates electricity". That is, the electric energy is converted into magnetic energy, and then the magnetic energy is converted into mechanical energy to drive the minute hand to run, so as to achieve the purpose of timing.
Transistor pendulum table
It uses dry battery as energy source, transistor as switch and cycloid hairspring as oscillation system.
quartz watch
The "quartz crystal" is used as the oscillator, and the electronic frequency division is used to control the motor operation and drive the pointer, so the travel time accuracy is very high. Electronic needle meter. It is a watch that combines an electronic movement with a quartz movement, and has both an electronic display and a needle travel indication. Such movements are like T250 movements of Citizen Miyota Co., Ltd.
Light wave meter
The built-in radio receiver and antenna of the optical kinetic energy radio wave watch receive the "standard time" radio wave sent by the transmitter, obtain the time, calendar and other data, and automatically correct the time and date of the watch. The standard time signal adopts the theory of high-precision cesium atomic watch, with an error of one second per 100000 years. All the radio watches in Xitie City use the optical kinetic energy technology, and use any visible light source as the energy source to drive. As long as there is light, there is energy. As long as you can receive radio waves, there will never be errors.
Electronic paper watch
Electronic paper watch is a watch with electronic paper display screen inside, which can display time, week and date. The realization of electronic paper technology mainly includes cholesterol liquid crystal display technology, electrophoretic display technology (EPD) and electrowetting display technology. The electronic watch paper used in electronic paper watches mainly uses electrophoresis display technology. The electronic paper watch has high display brightness and contrast, and it does not need backlighting to improve readability. The electronic paper display used in the electronic paper watch has a simple hardware structure and a thickness of about 1mm. It is a new force in the watch army.
Divers Watch
The so-called diving watch, as its name implies, refers to a watch that is waterproof and used for diving. Ordinary waterproof watches cannot be used for diving. Diving watches must comply with strict regulations. They are not waterproof enough to be called diving watches. The standard waterproof performance of the diving table shall be at least 200 meters deep; There is an outer ring on the watch ring that can rotate in one direction to measure the diving time; Divers are often in dark water, so the pointer, scale or surface of the diving meter must be coated with fluorescent materials to make it easier for users to read the time. Common diving watch brands include: Rolex, Suunto Element Series Shuiling Diving Watch, Omega Hippocampus Ploprof Series Diving Watch, Haoya Competitive Diving Series, Wanguobiao Ocean Chronometer Series, Blansacar Super Submarine Series, etc.
Popular brand
ROLEX
In 1905 (the 31st year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty), Hans Wisdorf, a German, and Davis, an Englishman, jointly ran the business in London. In 1908, Wisdom Dove registered the "Rolex trademark" in La Chateaufen, Switzerland, which was changed to Rolex. The first logo of Rolex watches was a palm with five fingers outstretched, which indicated that the brand's watches were completely carved by hand. Only later did the watches gradually evolve into the registered trademark of Crown to show its dominance in the watch field. It is the third of the world's top 10 valuable brands and a separate watch brand. In the 1920s, Rolex made every effort to develop a waterproof watch. In 1926, Rolex waterproof watch was officially registered. The design style of Rolex watches has always been based on the principle of "solemn, practical, not flashy", which is loved by people from all walks of life, especially those in the Far East and the Middle East.
Longines
Since its founding in 1832 in Saint Emier, Switzerland, it has repeatedly broken through the tabulation technology in the world, and is proud of its peers, while at the same time reflecting its elegant style. In 1912, the Longines watch created a historic moment in the World Games - giving priority to the principle of disconnection, starting and ending the timing devices at the starting and ending points of the competition field. Since then, Longines has become the designated official timekeeper for many international events, including many winter and summer Olympic Games. Longines watch is also closely related to aviation and navigation history. For example, the Longines watch calculates the flight time for the pilot Lindbergh to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Later, the Hourangle navigation watch was made according to the design of Lindbergh. Longines watches are often at the forefront of scientific and technological development. In 1905, it announced the manufacture of the first watch, in 1960, it produced the world's thin electromagnetic watch, and in 1969, it developed the world's first electronic magnetic quartz watch - Longines Ultra Quartz superquartz watch. The following year, in the Downhill Skiing World Cup held in St. Moritz, Switzerland, the Longines watch directly displayed the time on the world TV screen by electronic transmission through a digital signal transmitter. In 1979, Longines cooperated with other watch brands to develop the "Feuilled 'Or" watch, which became the world's thin quartz watch. Later, in 1984, Longines launched the famous Conquest watch, equipped with a highly accurate movement.
Radar (RADO)
Swiss Radar Watch Co., Ltd. was established in 1917 and has a history of 82 years. At present, the company has about 300 people and about 8000 sales outlets worldwide; There are about 200 maintenance service centers. In China's watch market, radar watches are not only introduced into automatic watches, but also into watches that are not easy to wear. The unique appearance design of radar watches has promoted the development of China's watch industry; In addition, RadarWatch became the first watch company in the industry to provide professional training for its products in China. Radar Watch has offices in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, and special service outlets in nearly 30 cities nationwide.
TISSOT
Founded in 1853, Tissot joined the Swatch Group, the world's largest watch manufacturer and distributor, in 1983. Since the beginning, we have been committed to developing innovative products that can bring surprises to customers. Market retail price: RMB 1000-10,00. Now it has seven series of sports, classic, classic nostalgia, fashion, high-tech, pocket watch and gold watch. The 150 year old Tissot brand is now sold to more than 150 countries on five continents. In 1853, Tissot watch was born in a small Swiss town with only 8500 residents, located on the border between Jura Mountain and France. Today, Tissot has crossed five continents and won the praise of more than 150 watch lovers. The serious, unapologetic and textured style that Tissot has adopted for 150 years is as enduring as its craft and design, and has been recognized by all customers around the world.
Swatch
As a model of Swiss watch, it has the youth power of world watch. Swatch watch, with its fashionable and colorful colors, lively design and subversive traditional style, ticks forward with the rhythm of modern life. Before Swatch, no popular brand has achieved such achievements: in a very short period of time, it has occupied the hearts of global enthusiasts, and its position has stood firm; In addition to maintaining the existing territory, it also continues to expand to other fields. The reason for Swatch's success is not a secret: Swatch is not just a timepiece. Swatch brand is positioned in fashion, sports, music, art... to create with passion. Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek, born in 1928, is one of the founders of Swatch Group (headquartered in Beer, Switzerland), and currently serves as the chairman of Swatch Group. In 1985, after restructuring Asuag and SSIH for more than four years, Mr. Hayek later promoted the merger of the two watch companies to establish Swatch Group. At the same time, he also joined hands with a group of Swiss smart selectors to become the controlling party of Swatch Group. In 1986, Mr. Hayek became the chairman and executive officer of Swatch Group.
maintain
When the temperature of the electronic watch is 25~28 ℃, the timing error of one day and night is within one second. When the temperature is below 0 ℃ or above 50 ℃, it will slow down for two seconds every day and night. At the same time, when the temperature reaches 60 ℃, the LCD panel will turn black. When the temperature drops below 0 ℃, the LCD panel will lose its display function. Therefore, in winter, the electronic watch can only be worn on the wrist, and its normal timing is maintained by the constant temperature of the human body. In addition, high and low temperatures will cause battery leakage and corrosion of the movement. The battery of an electronic watch can be used for more than one year generally, but the power consumption of the lighting lamp is large, and the power consumption of turning on for one second is equivalent to that of timing for more than one hour. When the battery is almost out of power, the light will dim, or the digital display will dim or even disappear when it is turned on. When replacing the battery, if you do not understand the meter repair technology, you should send it to the meter repair shop for installation. Moreover, the battery specification is not standardized, and there are many kinds of batteries, which cannot be used at will.
Electronic watches should pay attention to: Do not press the button too hard to avoid failure; The LCD panel needs to be replaced after five to seven years of use; The battery shall be taken out in time when there is no power, so as to avoid flowing liquid corroding the movement. If the light is not on, the button is out of order, and the timing suddenly has a large error, it should be repaired in a timely manner, which may be due to poor contact or removal of the component solder joints. Electronic watches, especially digital ones, generally have poor waterproof performance. Although the words "waterproof" are printed on the instructions or back cover, try to avoid contact with water. The structure of electronic watches is different from that of mechanical watches. They are all electronic circuits and electronic components. In case of water ingress, it will be "disastrous" and the whole watch will be scrapped. In particular, LCD panels and integrated lines are not only afraid of water, but also will fail if they are exposed to moisture for a long time. Therefore, take off the watch when washing your face and clothes. When it rains, it should be prevented from splashing rain. If water is found in the electronic watch or moisture accumulates on the inner wall of the watch cover, it should be sent to the watch shop for water removal and moisture removal immediately.
Belt
The gold-plated layer on the gold-plated watch is mostly 14K gold, which contains 58.5% pure gold as well as a certain amount of silver. After silver reacts with some volatile industrial waste gases in the air, a layer of black silver sulfide film will be produced on the surface, thus making the gold plated watch lose its golden luster. Therefore, when wearing a gold plated watch, avoid contacting chemical substances and waste gas, such as gas, liquefied gas and sulfur soap, and always keep the gold plated watch dry and clean. Well, wipe it with flannelette once a week. In addition, the chloride in sweat is very corrosive to the gold-plated watch. When the gold-plated watch is stained with sweat, it should be wiped clean in time to prevent sweat erosion from making the watch lose its original luster.
The yellow plating layer of a watch is a metal film composed of copper, zinc and aluminum alloys. It is easy to fade and lose luster if it is not well maintained. Before wearing a yellow plated watch, wipe the watch case with a clean soft cloth, evenly apply a layer of colorless nail polish, dry it, and then apply it every 1-2 months. After such treatment, not only can the color of the yellow plated watch be kept without being worn, but also the brightness of its outer surface can be increased. At the same time, sweat and moisture can be prevented from entering the watch in hot summer.
quartz
① Avoid strong impact: Although the watch has a shock proof function, it should still avoid sudden impact, so it is good to remove the watch when doing sports. ② Keep away from magnetic articles: The watch parts are metal products. Although they have antimagnetic devices, they are prone to inaccurate time when encountering magnetic objects, so they are rarely placed near radios, televisions and other electrical appliances. ③ Do not wash quartz watches Waterproof is generally life waterproof, only to prevent occasional hand washing, rain splashed water, can not wear a bath or swim!
The common conditions of mechanical watches sent for repair are nothing more than water ingress and collision. Unless the mechanical watch is marked with waterproof function, it is necessary to avoid water ingress into the case, because water will cause mechanical corrosion and strong destructive power. The sea water is even more untouchable. Even if the waterproof watch is marked, it can only have one year of waterproof support. Because the waterproof ring of the watch will be tired after a whole year of wear and tear, plus sweat, dust and other inevitable external factors, so a new waterproof ring must be replaced after a year, otherwise it will not have the function of waterproof.
In addition to waterproof, collision prevention is more important. Within the scope of economic capacity, two or three watches may be replaced in daily life: wear a mechanical watch during static activities, and wear a sports watch when engaged in sports. In this way, use the watch according to local conditions, helping to extend its service life. The mechanical watch is driven by the mechanical gear and spring, and friction is inevitable when it rotates, so it must be oiled and lubricated for a long time to reduce the wear rate of parts. Otherwise, they wait until there is a problem, and the problem is often serious. If the mechanical watch is good, you should go back to your mother's house every year to check whether there is improper use or water ingress. In particular, Taiwan's humid and hot climate, sweat, rain and dirty air accumulated over the years, caused chronic erosion to machinery, and the frequency and degree of damage were much higher than those in Europe, America and Japan, so "regular inspection" was very important; Then, it shall be thoroughly cleaned and maintained every three years.
It is safer to send the insurance maintenance and repair to an orthodox agent store. The internal cleaning must be handed over to a professional master, while the external cleaning can be done by the mechanical watch owner himself; Brush the watch strap with a soft bristle brush dipped in cleaning solution, and then rinse it with clean water. The watch case with waterproof function can also be cleaned in this way; Never scrub the watch case without waterproof function. Daily cleaning of the exterior is very important, because even though sweat and dust are too subtle to be detected, they actually continue to accumulate. If they are not cleaned, the watchband will rust, rot or become brittle. So the owner cleans it frequently.
Watch water inlet treatment
Method 1. If the watch is soaked in water, tightly wrap it with several layers of toilet paper or absorbent flannelette, place it about 15cm near the 40 watt lamp bulb, and bake it for about 30 minutes. The water vapor in the watch can be water vapor. Do not directly bake the watch cover close to the fire, so as not to deform the watch cover due to heat.
Method 2: Put the mask inward and the bottom shell outward on the wrist, and remove the moisture after two hours. If there is serious water ingress, send it to the watch shop immediately to wipe oil and clean the moisture of the movement to avoid rust of parts.
Method 3: Put the granulated silica gel and the watch with accumulated water into an airtight container. After several hours, take out the watch, and the accumulated water will disappear. This method is simple and economical, and has no damage to the accuracy and life of the meter. The silica gel that has absorbed water for many times can be dried for several hours at 120 ℃. Its water absorption capacity is renewable and can be used repeatedly.
When measuring the swing of a watch with an instrument, there are several important related indicators.
（1） Swing drop: when the watch is in full chord and 24 hours after the actual walk, it measures two planes (above and below the plane) and three vertical planes (below the handle, left the handle, and above the handle) respectively. The swing changes of these five positions, compared with the same position, take the larger difference as the swing drop. The swing drop is also an important indicator of the isochronous performance of a watch, and can also reflect the quality of the spring and hairspring and their design and assembly. Generally, the drop is required to be below 50 degrees.
（2） Swing adjustment: when the watch is in full chord state, compare the plane position on the face of the watch with several vertical positions, and take a larger difference as the swing adjustment. The swing adjustment is also an important indicator of the performance of the position error of a watch, which usually requires the adjustment to be less than 50 degrees.
（3） Low swing of 24-hour facade: after the watch has been running for 24 hours, the low swing of its vertical plane (usually the left position of the handle) cannot be less than 180 degrees. The performance of watches with high swing is better than that with low swing. Especially for watches with calendar attachment, the requirement of low swing on the 24-hour facade is particularly important.
The swing of a watch is generally measured by an amplitude meter. Switzerland produced AM201, GD-50 and other models in the early years. It is measured by the so-called "base angle method", so before measurement, it is necessary to select the corresponding cycloid rising angle of the measured watch. In the use of instruments to detect watches, a complete detection unit needs a meter calibrator and an amplitude meter. In the past, only calibrators were used for the maintenance of clocks and watches. Amplitude meters can only be seen in watch factories. It shows that people generally only pay attention to the speed and accuracy of watches, and the swing and accuracy are equally important and interrelated. The technical indicators of swing are not good, and the watches with large drop and vertical difference must not work well. Especially when calibrating the balance of the pendulum wheel and adjusting the position error, the swing must be referred to. The concept of swing requires that the maintenance personnel have a higher theoretical level of clocks and watches.
Identification of true and false
The appearance of the watch can be checked from the shell, the watch mirror, the dial and the hour minute second needle. The case shall be free of sand holes and obvious scratches, and the edges and corners shall be symmetrical; The screw joint between the rear cover and the upper shell shall be tight; The distance between the two watch rings and the watch case is equal. The hole for mounting the ear ring should be centered at the tail of the watch case foot, and the depth of the hole should be appropriate to prevent the watch ring from falling off; The watch mirror shall be transparent and bright without defects and scratches; The three needles shall be installed correctly, and there shall be correct safety clearance between needles and between the meter mirror and the dial; The plating of the dial and pointer is smooth and free of spots, and the dial scale lines or luminous spots are complete; There is a clearance of 0.1-0.3mm between the handle and the case.
sensitivity
The sensitivity of a watch refers to the flexibility of its swing wheel to swing automatically. The inspection method is:
1) Gently shake the watch that has not been wound and has stopped moving, and observe the movement of the second hand with the help of the shaking force: if the second hand stops moving in a short time, it means that the watch can go all the way after being wound up (that is, the spring has no torque), and has high sensitivity; If the second hand continues to move for a long time, it means that the watch cannot go all the way after it is wound up (that is, the spring still stores torque), the sensitivity is not high, or the watch machine is faulty.
2) Slowly turn the handle of a watch that has not been wound to stop moving, and observe the start of the second hand: the less the handle turns, the earlier the second hand starts, which means that the sensitivity of the watch is higher; Otherwise, the sensitivity is low or the meter has other faults. However, it should be noted that because the hairspring stiffness of the quick swing watch is large, it needs to wind up a little more than the traditional frequency (18000 times/hour) to swing. A watch with high sensitivity can last a long time after winding up once.
A certain distance should be kept between the watch needle and the mirror, between the dial and between the three needles, otherwise the normal operation of the watch machine will be affected due to mutual friction. The needle can be pulled for observation during inspection. The check method for the position and mutual cooperation of the hour hand and minute hand is: turn the minute hand and hour hand to 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, and observe whether the two hands are at right angles; Turn to 6 o'clock to check whether the two stitches are straight; Turn to 12 o'clock to check whether the two stitches coincide.
Previous mechanism
A normal watch should be easy to wear. When turning the handle, it feels looser at first, and gradually gets tighter and tighter. When it cannot continue to turn the handle forward, it means that the spring has been completely filled and the upper mechanism works normally. If there is an abnormal sound of "chirping" or the top teeth slip when turning the handle head to feed, it indicates that the feed mechanism is faulty.
Needle dialing mechanism
The watch should be flexible and reliable when pulling the needle, and the pointer should rotate evenly. During the inspection, the tightness of the friction fit between the split wheel and the central wheel shaft shall be checked. When pulling the needle, if there is no loose or tight feeling, it means that the friction force of the dividing wheel is normal and the oil is added properly. Otherwise, the needle pulling mechanism is faulty.
quartz movement
Mechanical movement
