gambiered Guangdong gauzeDyeing and finishing technology, namely sun drying, uses plant dyesDioscorea cirrhosaA process of dyeing silk.Xiangyun yarn is the only silk fabric in the world that is dyed with pure vegetable dyes, and is praised as "soft gold" by the textile industry.Foshan City, Guangdong ProvinceShunde DistrictTraditional craftsmanship is one of the national intangible cultural heritage.[1-2]
It has been recorded in the Tang Dynasty that the dyeing and finishing techniques of the fragrant cloud yarn. During the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, Guangdong Rang yarn had been exported abroad. The Rang yarn produced at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China was even more popular in the domestic and foreign markets of China, and entered its peak in the 1920s.[1]
The dyeing and finishing technology of fragrant cloud yarn, namely, sun drying, is a process of dyeing silk with plant dye Dioscorea cirrhosa.There have been records of potato buttercups in the Tang Dynasty. Shen Kuo of the Northern Song Dynasty and Li Shizhen of the Ming Dynasty both recorded the dyeing effect of potato buttercups.The sericulture and silk reeling industry in Shunde District, Foshan City has a long history, known as the "Silk Capital of South China", where the dyeing and finishing skills of Xiangyun yarn are completely preserved.During the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, Guangdong Ranunculus yarn had been exported abroad, and the Ranunculus yarn produced in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China was even more popular in the domestic and foreign markets.In the 1920s, when the silk reeling industry was at its peak, Shunde had more than 500 sun drying plants, more than 10000 workers and a daily output of more than 4000 meters of xiangyun gauze.[1]
Process characteristics
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Xiangyun gauze has a shiny surface, and its color is good in fastness to sunlight and washing. The fabric is waterproof and easy to distribute moisture. It is suitable for making various summer casual clothes, cheongsam, and Hong Kong shirts, which are cool, smooth, durable, and easy to wash.In the 14 processes of dyeing, only the juice of the natural plant Dioscorea cirrhosa and the river mud containing high valent iron ions are used for the Xiangyun yarn, which does not contain any chemical dyeing aids and does not produce harmful waste that pollutes the environment.[1]
technological process
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The dyeing and finishing process of Xiangyun yarn includes more than ten processes, including soaking, drying, sprinkling, sealing, boiling, rolling, mud passing, washing, drying, spreading fog, stenting, and packaging, which last for 15 days.During dyeing and finishing, the silk pieces are soaked in the highest concentration of potato buttercup water for half a day, and then turned over by hand.Then, pour wine on the silk, brush the potato buttercup solution for 6 times, and then put it in the sealed tank and soak it in buttercup water for 20 times, during which time, it should be 45°C~50°C Boil the silk in the water for two times.Mud passing is the most critical process in dyeing and finishing. The grayish black pure river mud must be stirred into a paste and applied thinly to the silk surface soaked in water for many times, so that the tannins in the buttercups can react with the iron ions in the river mud to dye the silk surface black and brown. This operation should be carried out at night and completed before dawn to avoid the black bottom due to sunlight.After being muddy, it is washed and dried, and the silk pieces are spread on the grass at dusk to soften, which completes the process flow of Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing.[4]
Inheritance and protection
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Inheritance value
historical value
Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology
The silk weaving industry and dyeing and weaving industry in Lingnan have a long history, and the Xiangyun yarn technology has a history of hundreds of years from embryonic to mature. It has a good reference value for studying the development process of the traditional silk weaving industry and dyeing and weaving industry in southern China.
Cultural values
Xiangyun yarn fabric and Kanyun yarn clothing are important representatives of Chinese traditional clothing culture.The original ecology and pure natural characteristics followed in the dyeing process, as well as the special antiseptic and bactericidal functions of Dioscorea cirrhosa juice, reflect the ancients' concept of health and health preservation.
pragmatic value
The clothes and articles for daily use made of fragrant cloud yarn fabric are smooth, cool, comfortable, elegant and suitable for people in hot southern regions.
economic value
Xiangyun yarn products have local characteristics. Chinese people and overseas Chinese love it very much. Even people in Japan, South Korea, Europe, America and other countries are also fascinated by this pure natural, healthy clothing fabric.With the continuous improvement of people's requirements for quality of life, and the increasing attention paid to the concept of green and environmental protection of clothing fabrics worldwide, natural fabrics represented by Xiangyun yarn also have development opportunities in the global clothing fabric market.[5]
Inheritance status
As the Xiangyun gauze series is purely handmade, the process is complex, the output is small, and is limited by the weather and environment, so the output is not high, and the number of employees is decreasing. Lunjiao Chengyi Yanglang Factory in Shunde has become the only remaining Yanglang Factory, and there are only two masters who are familiar with Yanglang in the factory.There is no successor to the Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology, which is on the verge of being lost and in urgent need of rescue.[1]
Inheriting Characters
Liang Zhu, male, Han nationality, was born in January 1935 in Xinmin, Lunjiao Town, Shunde City, Guangdong Province.In June 2009, Liang Zhu was selected as the representative inheritor of the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage projects, and was declared by Shunde District, Foshan City, Guangdong Province.[6]
protective measures
On September 1, 2009, "Xiangyunsha Cultural Heritage Protection Base" and "Guangdong Xiangyunsha Cultural Industrial Park" were officially listed in Lunjiao Street, Shunde District, Foshan City, Guangdong Province.[7]
In November 2019, the List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative Project Protection Units was announced, and Lunjiao Chengyi Yanglang Factory in Shunde District, Foshan City was qualified as a protection unit for the Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology project.[8]
On October 31, 2023, the List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative Project Protection Units was released, and the project protection unit of "Xiangyun Yarn Dyeing and Finishing Skills" was re identified as Lunjiao Street Cultural Station, Shunde District, Foshan City.[11-12]
social influence
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Important activities
On June 14, 2011, the "Shenzhen First Xiangyunsha Cultural Festival" was officially launched in Luohu District Cultural Center, lasting one week.[9]
On June 8, 2013, the second Xiangyun Yarn Cultural Festival was held in Xiangyun Yarn Museum, Wutong Mountain Art Town, Luohu District.[10]
