Ceramide is a kind of amide compound formed by dehydration of long-chain fatty acids and amino groups of sphingosine,[4]It mainly includes ceramide phosphate choline and ceramide phosphate ethanolamine. Phospholipids are the main components of cell membranes. 40%~50% of the sebum in the stratum corneum is composed of ceramide. Ceramide is the main part of the matrix between cells and plays an important role in maintaining the water balance in the stratum corneum.Ceramide has a strong ability to bind water molecules. It maintains skin moisture by forming a network structure in the stratum corneum.Therefore, ceramide has the function of maintaining skin moisture.[1]
Ceramide (Cers) exists in all eukaryotic cells and plays an important role in regulating cell differentiation, proliferation, apoptosis, aging and other life activities.Ceramide, as the main component of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, not only acts as the second messenger molecule in the sphingomyelin pathway, but also plays an important role in the formation process of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, maintaining the skin barrier, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening and disease treatment.[2]
Experimental studies show that ceramide plays an important role in maintaining skin barrier function[3]。
Adhesive action
Experimental research shows that ceramide content is directly related to the degree of skin dryness.Ceramide can significantly enhance the adhesion between keratinocytes, improve the dryness of skin, and reduce skin scaling[3]。
Moisturizing effect
Ceramide has a strong ability to associate water molecules. It maintains skin moisture by forming a network structure in the stratum corneum.Therefore, ceramide can maintain skin moisture[3]。
Anti aging effect
Ceramide can improve skin dryness, desquamation, roughness and other conditions;At the same time, ceramide can increase the thickness of epidermal cuticle, improve skin water holding capacity, reduce wrinkles, enhance skin elasticity, and delay skin aging[3]。
Cell function
Some experimental studies have shown that ceramide can regulate cell growth variation and induceApoptosisIsocellular function[3]。
Main applications
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Daily chemical
The use of skin activating essence cosmetics containing neurophthalamide can strengthen the anti-aging function of the skin, keep the skin elastic, smooth and delicate, and reduce the formation of facial wrinkles.[3]
Medical aspects
Ceramide plays an important messenger role in the induction of biological effects by a variety of cytokines, vitamin D3, Fas and CD28 ligands, and its role in mediating apoptosis has attracted increasing attention;Ceramide also participates in many physiological and pathological processes such as cell differentiation.Ceramide can induce apoptosis in the process of epidermal keratinocytes culture.Ceramide is the decomposition product of sphingomyelin in the bilayer of biomembrane and is recognized as the second messenger;Ceramide plays an extensive and important role in the process of cell growth, proliferation, differentiation, apoptosis and injury[3]。
food industry
Many health foods have been developed by using some physiological functions of ceramide, which can inhibit the rise of blood pressure, activate immunity, inhibit the activity of lipase, and inhibit the proliferation of cancer cells.Botanical ceramide products were also commercialized in 1998.So far, its commodities are mainly functional drinks, tablets and other nutritional supplements and health food, but there are not many effective commodities[3]
Preparation method
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Ceramide can be obtained in three ways:
1. Natural extraction method
The naturally extracted ceramide comes from animals and plants.Animals come from the brain of animals at risk of disease, so they cannot be used in cosmetics.The plant extraction method is limited by plant growth cycle and season, and the yield is low.
2. Chemical synthesis
The chemical synthesis is mainly pseudoceramide, whose structure and function are similar to ceramide, and can be used in cosmetics. Many pseudoceramide have been successfully synthesized.
3. Microbial fermentation
Microbial fermentation is a commonly used method to prepare ceramide in recent years, that is to use Pichia pastoris or Saccharomyces cerevisiae to ferment in a certain environment to obtain tetraacetyl plant sphingosine (TAPS), then deacetylate it to obtain plant sphingosine, and add fatty acids to synthesize ceramide and other substances.[2]
