Guangdong Morning TeaThe history can be traced back to the Qing Dynasty. During the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, there began to be "Erli Hall" for drinking tea in Guangzhou, Foshan and other places.Later, a more upscale tea house was born. The tea house has already had a scale of two floors, allowing tea guests to sit down and chat slowly[6]。With the further development of the commodity economy, the tea house gradually shows a trend of prosperity, and gradually "develops into the tea house bait industry"[6]。During the "Thirteen Elements" period, merchants and celebrities needed a place to entertain business partners, and the first modern tea house "Sanyuan Building" came into being.Later, there were more and more teahouses.
Since the late 1920s, in order to attract diners, many upscale tea houses in Guangzhou have rushed to introduce "Zhoumeidian", which became a trend in the catering industry at that time.At that time, the teahouse was like a "small society". There were people talking about business, dating, and gathering. The world was full of different attitudes and feelings, so it was all in "drinking tea"[7]。In the teahouse, while tasting delicious food, everyone told his family and friends that East and West are short, and the relationship between people is gradually getting closer.In Guangdong, "inviting morning tea" has become a common social way[6]。Later, garden style teahouses sprang up in GuangzhouPanxi Restaurant 、Beiyuan Restaurant、Nanyuan RestaurantOn behalf of[14]Every teahouse has dozens or even hundreds of snacks.[11]
Jiangsu
The morning tea in Yangzhou and Taizhou can be traced back to the early Qing Dynasty.As early as in the Kangxi and Qianlong heyday of the Qing Dynasty, the salt merchants in Yangzhou, who were rich in money, had developed a carefree mood to drink morning tea.Although the local tea is not famous, Yangzhou has become a big tea drinking port. Many time-honored restaurants and restaurants are named after tea houses and teahouses.
The Record of Yangzhou Boats written by Li Dou in the Qing Dynasty records that the tea house in my hometown is the best in the world.To drink morning tea in Yangzhou is not only to taste delicious food, but also to become an important social place.It's too grand to offer drinks.Eating morning tea is relatively simple and inexpensive.When friends get together, shops and visitors negotiate business, most of them go to teahouses.Occasionally, they came to the teahouse to "talk" about property disputes.Someone mediates in the middle and pulls together;Some people speak out and distinguish right from wrong, which is similar to the "eating tea" in Jiangnan.Going to teahouses is an important part of people's life in that area. They always go to teahouses several times a month[2]。
Yangzhou Fun Garden Tea HouseIt was built in the Qianlong period and has a history of nearly 200 years. It is close to the Slender West Lake, and the beauty of the garden is in it.hisYangzhou Morning TeaFeatured signature dishesVegetable Shaomai, salt merchantWudingbaoCoupled with a pot of green tea, you can really experience the "morningWater in skin, eveningWater foreskin”The comfortable life of the old Yangzhou people.[17]
Zhejiang
ZhejiangYoubu TownIt used to be the center of the commercial port in central Zhejiang, with the reputation of "the first port on the upper reaches of the Qiantang River", connecting merchants from all over the country since ancient times.Youbu Ancient TownThere are many shops and merchants in Yong'an Dock Town. Local workers like to get together for breakfast and rest after moving goods in the early morning.LanxiIn order to exchange business opportunities, our businessmen will also sit in the teahouse they know well in the morning, chatting all over the world.The demand for resting and eating has gradually evolved into the unique morning tea culture here.The tour town completely retains the ancient tradition of Lanxi people drinking morning tea and many special foods,Meat sinker、Chicken rice、Tofu Dumplings、Fried vermicelli, with cakeDeep-Fried Dough SticksEtc.The local residents in the Morning Tea Street of Youbu Ancient Town have gathered since 4:00 a.m. to have tea and breakfast.[8]
Shanghai
staymodern historyWith the immigration of Guangdong immigrants, Cantonese style teahouses and the habit of eating breakfast tea began to take root in Shanghai.At the beginning of the 20th century, Guangdong teahouses were very popularTibet RoadIn a short period, there are people who live in peace and contentmentTao Tao Ju, Dadong, Dasanyuan, Dongya, Xinya and so on. In addition, the more famous teahouses are Xiaohutian, Guangdong, Anyuan, West Lake, etc.Literati and literati came in a stream to discuss tea drinking and tea making.At the same time, along withHuaiyang cuisineRooted in Shanghai,HuaiyangMorning tea is also quietly emerging, the most representative of which isOld Half Zhai。[18]
Anhui
Chaohu LakecityZhegao TownMorning tea has a history of nearly 400 years[5]Zhegao Town is located inZhegao RiverAnd Chaohu Lake. In the era when water transportation was the main mode of transportation, Zhegao TownCentral AnhuiAn importantCommercial port。Traveling merchants and boatmen will have morning teaCultural inheritanceCome here.Many merchants from other places ask for a pot of tea and order a snack in Zhegao Town early in the morning, sit in the morning tea shop and eat slowly, talk about business, sometimes ask for a pot of wine when they are happy, and don't go back until the morning tea shop closes at noon.At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Zhegao Town was at its most prosperous time“Little Shanghai”It is said that many residents of the town have also joined the ranks of morning tea.There are eight kinds of morning tea snacks:Mixing thousands of pieces、Lion's head、Horseshoe crisp、Shepherd's pursefoodShaomai、Deep fried rice dumplings、Fried Dumplings、Melaleuca cakeandHemp cake。[9]
Fujian
Minnan peopleDrink morning teaPractice.Tong'anAs the saying goes, "A cup of tea in the morning is better than eating fish and shrimp. A cup of tea in the morning is better than eating a rooster." Tong'an people drink morning tea with fried dough sticks, whileXiamenPeople use fried dough sticksFried jujube、Send a gift、Peanut Cake、Tribute sugarEtc“Tea matching”The exquisite "tea match" is Longhai“Double cake moistening”，NanjingOf“Rice fragrance”, peaceful“Pillow cake”。Breakfast tea is usually eaten at home, but also on the "tea table boy" (that is, teahouse, teahouse).Because morning tea can wake up the stomach and strengthen the spleenLarge and medium-sized citiesSome residents also drink morning tea.[16]
Hunan
Drinking morning tea, forChangshaPeople, especially some old Changsha people, must do something after getting up early. There is a saying that describes old tea drinkers: "Not inFire PalaceDrinking tea is on the way to Laihuo Palace."Tea drinkers from all over Changsha come here every day regardless of distance and cost.Fire PalaceOur teahouse has a history of more than 100 years. People in old Changsha love to listen hereHunan OperaFlower drum play, Tanci.In the past, teahouses were the preferred place for leisure life in the marketplace. Drinking morning tea has become a living habit of some old Changsha people, and has become an irreplaceable way of life and spiritual sustenance.[15]
Shaanxi
In recent years, Xi'an catering industry has successively introduced northern style morning tea suitable for Shaanxi people, which is fresh, salty, sour and hot, giving Xi'an citizens a fashionable and affordable new choice.Special snacks such assoup with pepper, oil towerbuckwheatBowl holderWait, here for morning teatea setQuite particular.yesindustry insidersHe said that the reason why the northern style morning tea is loved by many people is that compared with traditional stalls, it is fashionable to sit down and drink morning tea in this environment.[13]
Ningxia
For living inYellow RiverWaterfrontNingxiaWu ZhongAs far as people are concerned, whether it is a casual dinner for relatives and friends or business partners, it often starts with a morning tea lasting two or three hours.According to historical documents, people in the northwest have been drinking tea since the Tang Dynasty, because local people love to eatBeef and mutton、Dairy, drinking tea can relieve greasy.The ingredients in hot tea have also changed with the changes of the times, and gradually developed into today'sAssorted Chinese Herbal Tea。But the real rise of Wuzhong morning tea shop started fromLamian NoodlesMuseum.In the 1980s, manyLanzhouPeople bring ramenNingxiaLater, Wu Zhongren carried out innovation and improvement, and realized the combination of Babao tea andLanzhou hand-pulled noodlesIntegration of.With the increasing demand of the common people, the store has gradually added Babao teabeef、Tea eggAnd variousside dishAnd face points.[12]
Su style morning tea, mostly made of beansdried bean curd cut into shredsAnd pastry snacks, such asWonton, fish noodle soup,Dry mixed noodles，Stir-Fried Noodles with VegetablesEtcnoodle, crab roe soup, fresh meatBamboo shoot bun，dried vegetableBag and so on.In fact, people in the south also have a lot of pasta, but the practice, shape and taste of these pasta are very different from those in the north.As for dry silkDried bean curdCut it with a knifeA piece of tofuDry and evenly cut it into about 20 pieces, then lay it diagonally and cut it into thin wires equivalent to match sticks, and then pour it into boiling water for repeated rinsing.Of course, dried silk itself is tasteless, and it depends on seasoning to blend.Soy sauce, water, sugar, salt, adjusted to moderate intensity, slightly sweet and delicious;Sprinkle with shredded gingercoriander、Shredded carrot、peanut meat、Mustard tuberDing then made light and delicious hot dried silk.
Culture
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Northern Culture
When it comes to morning tea, people's impression must first appear in the south, especially in Guangdong and Jiangsu.However, in Xi'an, Shaanxi Province, which is located in the north of China, a new form of catering - Northern Morning Tea has emerged and is very popular with consumers.North Morning Tea was the first time-honored restaurantXian restaurant Shaanxi flavor of the head officeSnack BarAt 7 o'clock in the morning, the guests are almost full. There are 8 categories of 60 kinds of special dishesservice mode In front of guests, one is the common buffet form;The other is cart service.The varieties supplied include not only fried snacks, all kinds of steamed bunsPowder soupWater basin series, as well as improved southern morning tea and innovativeXiaolong, Steamed dishes series, rich in varieties, diverse from north to south.When guests sit down, they can order at any time, or have a buffet dinner.
Southern Culture
Get up in the morning, buy a newspaper, walk into the teahouse easily, ask for a pot of tea, buy two kinds of snacks, eat while reading.Or ask one or two friends for some snacks and chat while eating.The elderly, in particular, don't have to rush to work. After morning exercises, a pot of morning tea can be drunk until 90 o'clock, and then walk down the street to buy some fish, meat, vegetables, etcWalk homeGo.
The teahouse is a representative and most traditional place for breakfast in Guangdong.There are dozens and hundreds of snacks in the teahouse, such as shrimp dumplings, saltytraditional Chinese rice-pudding、Fish porridge, rice noodles and a variety of side dishes, etc., very rich.These things are put in a cart and pushed to the guests for free selection.Outsiders often wonder how busy Cantonese can spend the morning in the teahouse?In fact, going to the teahouse is also a kind ofsocial affairWhether it's chatting with friends or going to business, this kind of occasion will make people feel very calm and comfortable.Now this culture is becoming more and more popular in Shanghai.
Due to the large number of Cantonese among overseas Chinese, Guangdong morning tea has been spread overseas very early.stayNew York、San FranciscoIn such a big city, it is easy to find Guangdong tea houses, where you can go to drink Guangdong morning tea.Even remoteSouth Pacific On the island, we often see the signs of "morning tea every day" and "morning tea all day" hanging in front of Chinese restaurants.Here, morning tea is actually a kind of Guangdong flavor snack, but also a kind of culture.
When you enter the teahouse, first of all, the service lady will give you a record card, ask how many people there are and make a record on the card (this is called a tea seat, one tea seat per person; each tea seat costs one to several yuan).Choose a table and sit down. Let's have two pots of tea first.Tea is optional, including Oolong, Puer, Chrysanthemum, Jupu (chrysanthemum plus Puer), etc.
You don't have to pick up the snacks yourself. The teahouse has a special oneservice personalPush the car around the hall in turn. There are all kinds of snacks and snacks on the car. As soon as the car arrives, you can stop it. Just take whatever is delicious. The service lady will take the initiative to write down the account on the record card.It should be noted here that all snacks are divided into six categories: small, middle, large, top, characteristics, super, and the price is not to say that sesame seeds are blooming -- it is getting higher and higher.Now, the average price is 35 yuan for a small one, and 17 or 8 yuan for a small one.The young lady knows the grades of all kinds of snacks. She uses a small seal to stamp a small seal on the corresponding grade of the record card. At the final settlement, she will pay by these small seals.
Of course, the tea drinkers who came here specially for eating were from top to bottom, and the lion opened its mouth wide;The tea drinkers who just want to chat are in a heap. One or two dishes are on the table. They are leisurely drinking tea and occasionally taking a bite out of their chopsticks.The two have their own place and have nothing to do with each other.
Eating morning tea is the taste of time. You must have this leisurely leisure.Unlike ordinary teahouses, where people drink tea purely, Guangdong morning tea is rich and luxurious. Tea is just an excuse, and more widely, Cantonese dim sum dishes and porridge.
Eating morning tea has become a kind of culture, rather than a pure waste of time.
