Cold cream, also called balm or skin care cream, is mostly water in oil emulsion. When applied to the skin, water will separate and evaporateendothermicIt makes the skin feel cool, so it has the name of cold cream.High quality cold cream has a smooth and shiny appearance, without oil or moistureSeparation phenomenon, no shrinkage, no stripes, moderate consistency, easy to apply[1]
Cold frostBalsamorskin creamMost of them are water in oil emulsions. The first cold cream was made of one part beeswax, four parts olive oil and some rose water solutions. Limited to the conditions at that time (AD 100-200), the emulsion was not stable enough. When it was applied to the skin, water separated. Water evaporated and absorbed heat, making the skin feel cool. Therefore, it has the name of cold cream.
The high-quality cold cream has a smooth and shiny appearance, no oil or water separation, no shrinkage, no stripes, moderate consistency, and is easy to apply.
Due to different regions where cold cream is used, the product formula should be different.The cold cream used in high temperature areas should be thicker, while the cold cream used in cold areas should be softer. The cold cream used for skin moisturizing and massage should be thicker than the skin cleansing cream used for skin cleaning.
The basic raw materials of cold cream include beeswax, white oil, waterborax, spices andpreservative。In cold cream, a part of vegetable oil is often used instead of white oil. Although the cold cream made of vegetable oil is generally not as white as the cold cream made of white oil in color, considering the skin absorption, it is better to use a part of vegetable oil.Especially white oil with more n-alkanes is not suitable for making cold cream.Because it forms barrier and airtight film on the skin.Therefore, white oil with high content of isoparaffins should be selected to make cold cream. For example, # 18 white oil produced by Hangzhou Refinery contains 70-80% of isoparaffins.Almond oil and tea oil are better vegetable oils to replace white oil, and antioxidant should be added to inhibit rancidity.
Cold cream is mostly used in autumn and winter. It can not only protect and soften skin, but also prevent dry and cracked skin.In addition, it can also beFoundation creamTo use, apply a little cold cream before applying powder to increase the adhesive force of the powder.
Cold cream can be bottled or boxed due to different packaging forms.Bottled at 35 ℃ without oil-water separationConsistencyIt is soft, and the consistency of the box should be thicker than that of the bottle.
Spices, preservatives, antioxidants, right amount, right amount
In modern cold cream formulations, beeswax boron emulsion system has gradually been replaced by non-ionic emulsifiers, but for operation and effect, the method of combining non-ionic emulsifiers with beeswax boron system is often used.
At the beginning of emulsification, keep the oil and water at a lower temperature (generally 70 ℃). Add the borax aqueous solution to the mixture of oil ester wax. The stirring can be more intense at the beginning, but when the aqueous solution is added, it should be stirred slowly. High temperature or excessive stirring may make oil in water cold cream. Add spices at 45 ℃, stop stirring at 40 ℃, and stay still overnight,Bottle after passing through three roller machine or colloid mill.
First, put powdered aluminum bistearate into white oil, mix it with a turbine mixer, and after it is completely melted, filter it into a jacketed mixing pot, mix it with grease and wax that have been heated to 110 ℃ in advance, and maintain the temperature at 80 ℃.Calcium hydroxide is put into 80 ℃ hot water, dissolved, added into the above oil, stirred and cooled to 28 ℃.After grinding by three roll machine, vacuum degassing, and passing the 40 ℃ heat resistance test, it can be packaged.
Formula example 3,% (weight): solid paraffin 6, microcrystalline paraffin 4, beeswax 6, vaseline 12, liquid paraffin 44.5, dehydrated sorbitol sesquioleate 3.2, polyoxyethylene (20) dehydrated sorbitol monooleate 0.8, soap powder 0.3, refined water 22.7, spices 0.5, proper amount of preservatives and antioxidant.
Add soap powder into refined water, heat to keep 70 ℃ (water phase), mix other ingredients, heat to dissolve, and keep 70 ℃ (oil phase).Add water phase to oil phase for emulsification, and package after cooling.
Add soap powder and borax refined water, heat and dissolve, and maintain 70 ℃ (aqueous phase).Mix the other ingredients, heat and melt them, slowly add the oil phase to the water phase under the condition of 70 ℃ (oil phase) stirring, perform reaction emulsification, stir and cool to 30 ℃ for packaging.
Add propylene glycol into refined water, heat it, keep it at 70 ℃ (water phase), mix other ingredients, heat and melt it, keep it at 70 ℃ (oil phase).Add water phase to oil phase for emulsification, and package after cooling.
Add propylene glycol into refined water, heat it, keep it at 70 ℃ (water phase), mix other ingredients, heat and dissolve it, keep it at 70 ℃ (oil phase), add oil phase to water phase for emulsification, then cool it and pack it.
Formula example 7,% (weight): ethylene oxide propylene oxide block copolymer 3.6, propylene glycol 6.4, liquid paraffin 35, lanolin 2, vaseline 12, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether 10, refined water 30, flavor 0.1, and appropriate amount of preservative.
takeBlock copolymerAdd water at 4-10 ℃, stir until dissolved, add propylene glycol, liquid paraffin, lanolin, vaseline and alcohol ether, slowly heat until each component is melted, then stir and cool, add spices, and emulsify evenly.
Formula example 8,% (weight),ethylene oxide－Propylene oxideBlock copolymer 3.6, propylene glycol 18, mineral oil 18, water-soluble lanolin 1.8, refined water 48.6, glycerol monostearate 10, proper amount of spices and preservatives.
Formula example 9,% (weight): glycerol monostearate 15, mineral oil 18, whale wax 5, cetyl alcohol 2,P-hydroxybenzoic acidPropyl ester 0.1, refined water 54.8, glycerin 5, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1
Formula example 10,% (weight), stearic acid 14, anhydrous lanolin 9.3, white beeswax 7.5, terpineol 0.1, white mineral oil 15.4, triethanolamine 1.8, propylene glycol 7.5, refined water 44.4, proper amount of spices.
Dissolve stearic acid, lanolin and beeswax in mineral oil, heat to 70 ℃, and then add terpineol.Heat the water in another pot to 70 ℃, addTriethanolamineAdd this aqueous solution to the mixture of oil and wax, stir vigorously until a stable emulsification system is obtained, then add propylene glycol dissolved with flavor, continue to stir evenly to obtain viscous cream, cool to room temperature, and pack.
Formula Example 11,% (weight): mineral oil 49.1, beeswax 2.2, lanolin 5.2, stearic acid 5.5, triethanolamine 0.9, glycerin 0.9, borax 0.9, water 34.3, preservative 0.9, proper amount of spices.
Mix the first four components and heat them to 75 ℃ (oil phase), dissolve glycerin, borax and triethanolamine in water, heat them to the same temperature (water phase), add water phase into the oil phase under stirring, cool them to 50 ℃, add spices and preservatives.
Formula example 12,% (weight): beeswax 17, white oil and lanolin alcohol 3, acetylated lanolin 1, white oil 45, refined water 33, borax 1.Appropriate amount of preservatives and spices.
Formula example 13,% (weight): beeswax 10, lanolin 3.1, sorbitol sesquioleate 1, white oil 50, refined water 35.2, borax 0.7, proper amount of preservatives and spices.
Formula Example 14,% (weight): propylene glycol monostearate and distearate 6.5, mineral oil 24, oleic acid 3, lanolin 1, February lauryl thiodipropionate 0.05, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1, refined water 63.7, triethanolamine 1.5, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15, proper amount of spices.
Formula example 15,% (weight): mineral oil 47.5, beeswax 6, whale wax 6, cetyl alcohol 1, lanolin 1, refined water 38, cetyl trimethyl cyclic ethanolamine sulfonic acid ammonium 0.1, proper amount of spices.
Formula Example 16,% (weight):Ethoxylated lanolin3. Wool fatty acid isopropyl ester 2, beeswax 10, mineral oil 44, glycerol monostearate 2, floor wax 5, borax 0.66, refined water 33.4, proper amount of spices and preservatives.
Add 85 ℃ water phase to 85 ℃ oil phase under stirring for emulsification.Cool to 25-30 ℃.
Some quality problems often occur during the production and storage of cold cream, which are briefly described below.
(1) Bottled cold cream oozes oil on the surface in summer, which is caused by unstable emulsification or excessive white oil consumption. A small amount of natural wax can be added to eliminate it, because natural wax and white oil not only have a good synergistic effect, but also can improve the melting point of grease.
Richard Gay, who participated in the study, said that cold cream would damage the stratum corneum, which is the protective layer of the skin and can prevent various chemicals from entering the body from the skin.If the cold cream is used for a long time, the cuticle will become thinner, and external chemicals will easily invade and cause inflammation.For patients with skin diseases, there is a problem with the affected skin. If cold cream is used again, the condition will worsen.[2]
(2) When the boxed cold cream is grinded by three rollers, the first reason is that the amount of wax is too much, and the second reason is that the temperature of stopping mixing may be too high (35 ℃). Measures such as reducing the amount of wax, strictly controlling the stopping of mixing at 28 ℃, and forced cooling with chilled water when the room temperature is high can be taken to eliminate the above phenomenon.
(3) The paste is thick because the reflux cooling water is not enough during the manufacturing process, or the gap between rollers is too large during the three roll grinding, or there are empty bubbles in the paste.
(4) The following factors will make the product yellow.For example, the color of the wax is yellow, the moisture content of the inner phase is below 30%, and the transparency increases due to the decrease of the dispersed phase;Discoloration of spices.
