Sunshine, summer, holidays... Some people spend their time quietly at home. But for photographers, it is a good time to go out for photography. Every day when I go out, the photographer will shoot the scenery, people and buildings from morning to night, and the pure triathlon. But how to achieve satisfactory results in all three items? The purpose of this practical guide is to provide you with some tips you must know.
Equipment
Travelers always consider the most basic issues first. If you want to take pictures for a long time, you must consider the weight and carrying of equipment. The choice of camera bag is a problem that individuals often ignore. Whether it is nylon or canvas, hard or soft, the camera bag has two functions: first, it should protect equipment, and second, it should be easy to carry. There is no doubt that the backpack is very effective for carrying equipment, especially heavy equipment. However, in the shooting process, the backpack is very cumbersome. A shoulder bag is very good for the operation of photography, but if you want to carry a large lens or tripod, it is very inconvenient. If you go to a tough place and the road is rough, the camera bag must be protected with built-in sponge partition protection equipment. In fact, the process of preparing the camera bag before going out is the same as that of the medical aid bag you are going to travel: it must be considered according to where you go. For example, if you go to Scotland to shoot the monster in Loch Roccones, your flash may not be used, and you will not take it.
We divide this practical guide into three parts. According to the different requirements of each part, we will make specific suggestions on photographic equipment. The reason for doing so is to kindly warn you that every time you go out to shoot, you should actually carefully prepare before starting. Whether you are shooting scenery, characters or buildings, when you are shooting outside, you must use live light to compose pictures. It is unnecessary and impossible to take all your equipment with you every time you shoot. Carefully select a few necessary accessories, such as flash lights and enough film (depending on the situation, such as color negatives, which can be found all over the world, but not necessarily black and white films or reverse films).
We emphasize that the film must be carried with you when passing through the customs, requiring manual inspection, because all films, including ISO25, are vulnerable to X-ray pollution. After three or four customs X-ray tests, your film can be called scrap, especially the reversal film.
（1） Tourism scenery photography
The primary purpose of outdoor scenery is to show the change of space through film.
There are many similarities between scenic photography and figure skating. Figure skating has prescribed actions, and there are typical scenic spots that can not be photographed in tourism scenery photography. The purpose of this requirement is to show the salient features of geographical regions in the same series of photographic works. You can't think that everyone in this place can't feel their own feelings when they shoot themselves. Figure skating has optional action, and the optional action in tourism scenery photography is your free shooting space.
Tourism scenery photography must master:
A satisfactory picture is the result of three conditions that must be met for shooting: first, in a more interesting place; Second, there should be relatively satisfactory light; Third, we should find a relatively satisfactory shooting point. If one of these three items is not met, your travel scenery photography can be called a failure, and the photos can only be commemorative of the travel family. This is why we should try our best to go to the most distinctive places, and either at dawn or at dusk. Naturally, the traditional group tourism can not meet this point. Those who like to take photos of tourist scenery can go to bed at noon because they get up early in the morning. The light at noon is the worst. However, we must not ignore the cloudy or rainy days, because the scenic spots often have unexpected scenes in this weather.
The ideal is to return to the scenic spot repeatedly at different times of the day or for several consecutive days. But this is often a luxury. Because traditional group travel is not allowed.
Having satisfactory lighting is not a guarantee for a successful photo. The hardest part is just beginning. How to use this satisfactory light to express the spatial perspective of the scenic spot on a small frame [negative] is the key to distinguish a successful photo from a successful one. This is also the reason why people are often disappointed when they see photos. After taking the magnificent and spectacular Niagara Falls, when I saw the picture, I asked myself: Is this the waterfall I saw?
Like painting, perspective is the key. How to show the beauty of three-dimensional space in a two-dimensional space. This is the key to outside landscape photography. The main problem of photographers is to show the depth of space through visual methods and photographic tools.
If the scenic spot does not have something that can be used as a scale of size, such as the branches in the picture, we need to find a way to add a foreground to the scenery. The foreground has several uses: first, give the picture a deep expression, so that the vision will be guided by the foreground to the main shooting object; Secondly, the foreground can be used to close the scene on the two-dimensional picture and fill the picture. Finally, the foreground can also weave a contrast (color or light and shade contrast). To shoot scenery, photographers need to regroup and adjust the space. This process is the photographer's signature for the scenic spot. The photographer should be able to find a sequence and a balance in the chaotic environment around the scenic spot. If this is not the case, the photos taken are a sad record of reality.
Technically, the camera's depth of field prediction should be used to the maximum extent. Depth of field prediction is still the simplest way to directly observe the area from foreground to clear background. However, even if the aperture is reduced to the minimum, the clear area can only guarantee a certain range. It's time to change your mind. Because in addition to the good quality of your lens, a picture that is almost clear from the foreground to the background is the most boring, and can not show your creation at all. On the contrary, if a part of the very clear scene has a relatively vague foreground, others can like it or not, but at least in this photo, you left your own signature, that is, your own creativity. This is why it is very important to control the clear area in landscape photography.
In terms of exposure, the sky is often a factor that creates problems. If the sky is too bright, the light ratio between the sky and the ground may be larger. If the light ratio exceeds 3 or 4 apertures, you have to choose: either an overly bright sky and an accurately exposed ground, or the sky is accurately exposed and the ground is underexposed. In black and white photography, this situation can be compensated by the occlusion during dark room magnification. But if it is color, the simplest way is to use a gradient gray filter. Modern single lens reflex cameras can fully expose the gradient gray filter correctly. When using the gradient gray filter, be sure to pay attention to the position of the gradient gray line. If your SLR camera allows, it is recommended that you change the viewfinder to a Jiugong format. With it, you can not only ensure the balance of the horizon, but also control the proportion of various components in the image (don't forget a certain ratio of one-third of the composition!). Those who seek perfection will also use tripods. But when you go out, you should be able to use the things on hand, such as the flameout car roof.
Must avoid:
Avoid an empty sky. There is a word to keep in mind that the clearer the sky is, the more flat the picture is. The clear and empty sky makes the unique atmosphere of the scenic spot disappear.
The noon light. In the flat and strong light at noon, even the best photographer can't take good pictures with the best film and the best filter can't forget the maximum aperture of the lens. Because a successful landscape film is often enlarged to 30X40 or 40X50 cm. In this case, if the maximum aperture of the lens is used, the photo not only has the possibility of darkening at the four corners, but also the optical resolution is not the best. Even for a good lens with only 28mm 2.8 aperture, if you want to get the best effect, you should use an aperture smaller than 5.6 in use.
It is not because there is a zoom lens up to 300 mm that this focal length is overused. Unless there is a professional zoom lens such as 70-200/2.8, the image quality of the zoom lens will decrease with the increase of the lens focal length.
Don't place too much reliance on landscape mode or auto exposure mode. Aperture first is the best mode of landscape style, because this mode allows you to control the size of the clear area. The photographer who shoots scenery should be able to control the depth of field with aperture.
What kind of equipment is used for taking pictures of scenery
Lens: 28, 35, 50 and 135 mm lenses are indispensable. The auxiliary lens can be a 20 or 24, 85, and 200 mm lens. Fish eye lens and 300mm lens are occasionally used.
Film: For black and white photography, AGFA APX25 can provide a very fine layer and tiny particles. KODAK TECHNICAL PAN is undoubtedly the best, especially when it needs to be magnified to 30X40cm. However, it is too expensive and requires more washing. In general, ILFORD DELTA100 and KODAK Tmax 100 are very mature landscape films. In the reverse film, FUJI VELVIA50 and KODAK 100 EXTRACOLOR are the most saturated films, suitable for landscape photography. There are many choices of color negatives, such as FUJI SUPERIA ISO 100/200, KODAK ROYAL100/200, AGFA OPTIMA 100/200, etc.
Accessories: The hood is a must, as well as the shutter cable or remote control. In terms of filters, UVs, polarizers and gradient gray filters are indispensable. The smoke gradient filter can also be used occasionally. In black and white photography, green or yellow filters are commonly used.
Photography bag: backpack photography bag is the most suitable because there are many equipment and tripod. Pay attention to the comfort of the straps.
（2） Tourist portrait photography
If landscape photography is a slow work, like a jigsaw puzzle, then tourist portrait photography requires quick response. Whether capturing or asking people to pose, shooting requires rapid and accurate shooting.
What must be mastered in tourist portrait photography:
As long as we take portraits, we are inevitably affected by self psychological factors. How to look at it and how to shoot it is totally up to you. Some people are impulsive, while others are patient: some will use continuous shooting, like submachinegun shooting, and some will take one or two shots slowly; Some will ask the characters to pose, while others patiently wait for the right candidates to enter the pre selected background; Some will use 24mm stickers to shoot on the characters, while others will hide far away, using 200mm... Anyway, the most important thing is to shoot in a customary, relaxed environment. This relaxed environment is also conducive to communication between photographers.
In order to achieve such a relaxed environment, photographers should never take a pose similar to that of hunters and prey. The vision of photography should transcend the form and explore the inner things of the photographer. Tourist portrait photos must not be the prey of hunters.
The key of tourist portrait photography is the drama, atmosphere, light and setting of the scene. Therefore, the background of tourist portrait photography must be controlled. Many portraits fail because there is a head or a hand on the background. Of course, it is impossible to control all of them in 1/250 second when capturing tourist portraits. The best way is to choose the scenery and wait. If you find a satisfactory set, you should judge the exposure and angle according to the sunlight; Then slowly approach the set; Feel the atmosphere of the set. Take two random pictures to test the reaction of local people. First, take two pictures for children, and talk with them tentatively... Let the local people accept themselves and their cameras. When we are accepted by the local people, we should act quickly. We can shoot three or four pictures at most, but rarely more. Because when the person being photographed feels that you take more photos, he will doubt whether you are a professional photographer and start to doubt that you want to use his photos for commercial purposes. The identity of tourists makes it easy for you to communicate with local people, but you should also keep yourself unobtrusive and respect others. Sometimes some places are suitable for shooting, such as morning markets, festivals, weddings, etc; But sometimes the best advice is to collect your camera.
From a technical point of view, first of all, you should master the composition of the scenery. Modern cameras have the function of multi-point auto focusing, which brings great convenience to the shooting and composition. The photographer no longer needs to focus with the central focus, and then re compose the picture, which saves a lot of time. However, manual focus should not be ignored. Because you can preselect the scene in advance, focus on it, and then wait for something interesting to happen. In this case, auto focus is not reliable, and you may miss the best opportunity because the camera is looking for focus. It is prudent to use a wide-angle lens, such as a 28mm or 35mm lens, set the aperture speed in advance, focus, and then wait for the characters that are more consistent with the creative intent to appear in the pre selected scene.
Must avoid:
First of all, forget the zoom lens, and don't misuse the zoom lens, especially the telephoto end. Because a good documentary portrait is often obtained when the photographer participates in the activities of being photographed. Large aperture and long focal length are not the best way to make the subject stand out from the background. The best way is to choose the right angle and good composition.
Unless you like blurring, the shutter speed should not be lower than 1/125 second. For example, if a moving character is only 2 meters away from you, the camera speed must be about 1/500 second to get a very clear image. The shutter speed depends on the distance between you and the person you are shooting and the speed at which he or she moves.
Don't steal photos, don't hide. Do you like others to aim at you with a telephoto lens? Close to the camera, the initial formality will soon be broken, especially after a few minutes, people forget the camera in your hand. In fact, only beginners of photography think that others can't see him shooting. This situation is very easy to see in cities. In the countryside, greet the local people first, and getting familiar with each other is the key to producing good works.
Don't rely too much on auto focus! When shooting a portrait, the focus must be on the eyes.
What kind of equipment is used for taking tourist portraits
Lens: 28, 35, 50 and 135 mm lenses are indispensable. The auxiliary lens can be a 20 or 24, 85, and 200 mm lens. Autofocus zoom lenses also occasionally come in handy.
Film: For black and white photography, it is very simple. You can use ISO400 film directly. KODAK Tri X and ILFORD HP5+are recommended by us. Although the particles are not as delicate as those of T MAX or DELTA, they are more tolerant in use and the washing is not too particular. In the reverse film, if it is a professional film, use FUJI PROVIA 100F and KODAK 100 SW. In addition, several FUJI 100-1000 or KODAK E200 are used for shooting indoors or in places with poor light. In amateur film, FUJI SENSIA II or KODAK ELITE are quite good choices. There are many choices of color negatives. We only recommend using at least ISO 200 and above films, plus several ISO 800 films.
Accessories: Flash is a very useful equipment. Take Polaroid disposable camera, if any. If you have children, bring some photos of them. These photos and Polaroid one-off photos will help you to build a good relationship with the local people.
Photography bag: One shoulder photography bag is suitable, but it is easy to take things. Otherwise, a less eye-catching photographic vest will be enough. Never pursue professional appearance too much, because it is difficult to communicate with local people. It's good to be a tourist.
（3） Photography of cultural relics and historic sites
Whether you go to Dunhuang, Angkor Wat, Paris or New York, there are always many cultural relics and historic sites in these places full of tourists. In addition to tourist souvenir photos, there may also be good photographic works.
The following must be mastered in photography of cultural relics and historic sites:
The first point is to adapt to the local environment and light. Depending on the location, these cultural relics and historic sites may be open or closed, and different geographical environments may allow you to avoid a large number of tourists and find several good points of view.
In a closed place (open from 10 to 18 o'clock), it is impossible to consider the light at sunrise or sunset in the morning. In this case, you should find the strongest and whitest light. Then use light scattering or refraction according to it. This is the best light for shooting the cloister and corridor of the temple. In fact, it is easier to take a picture of a small statue forgotten in a small corner than a large building full of tourists and with poor light. Therefore, we should learn to reverse travel to find places that can't be taken care of by automatic point and shoot cameras.
In an open space, your shooting environment will be much better. You can go out of the traditional tourist routes and find good shooting spots. Don't settle for the obvious. If possible, stand high and away from cultural relics; Change lenses with different focal lengths; Take both close-up and panoramic pictures. A scenic spot will have different effects according to the use of the lens. It may be grand or ordinary; It may be unexpected or disappointing.
In the composition of the picture, the most important thing is to highlight the characteristics of the scenic spots, but not to drop the trap like a scenic postcard. The vendors who sell postcards around the scenic spots will help you a lot. Look at the composition, light, viewpoint or foreground of the scenic spots on the postcard. This is not to make you take photos like postcards, but to avoid taking similar photos with the help of the experience of photographers who take postcards. On this basis, find out your viewpoint according to the light, your shooting style, your equipment, etc.
As with tourism scenery photography, how to control the clear area (depth of field) is the key. We still recommend that you determine the aperture by yourself and use aperture priority instead of automatic program exposure. In fact, the biggest problem in photographing historic sites is how to ensure that the line and surface are not deformed. If the shooting distance is not allowed, it is difficult to ensure that the line and surface of the building are not deformed. From the optical point of view, the solution to this problem is the so-called optical axis shift lens. But the high price makes them not affordable for everyone. At the same time, unless shooting architecture is your specialty, this kind of lens is not often used. A feasible method is to improve the shooting angle. If possible, stand on a small stool or ladder. This height should allow you to shoot on top of a large number of tourists, and the most important thing is that the high point can ensure that the line and surface of the building are not excessively deformed.
Must avoid:
Beware of white or gold surfaces of buildings. These surfaces will incorrectly guide the camera's metering system. Like backlit photography, you are likely to get an underexposed photo. Use the camera's exposure compensation or find a normal surface or the back of your hand to measure light. If you use reverse film, pay special attention to this point.
Be careful with gradient filters and polarizers. Do not overuse these two lenses. Because unless it is deliberate, it is difficult to accept that the top and bottom of the building are different colors. Similarly, polarizers will darken buildings and lose their unique luster. But in black and white photography, a yellow/green lens is very useful because it makes the sky more layered, darker, and makes buildings stand out.
Forget the built-in flash of the camera, because its index is usually small and has no effect on buildings. If necessary, a large index will be more useful.
What kind of equipment is used for photographing cultural relics and historic sites
Lens: 28, 35 and 70-200 mm lenses are indispensable. The auxiliary lens can be a 20 or 24, 85, and 135 mm lens. The most ideal is a pivot lens.
Film: For black and white photography, KODAK T MAX100 or ILFORD DELTA100 has fine grains. In the reverse film, the FUJI SENSIA II or KODAK ELITE color restoration is better, both are quite good choices. There are many choices of color negatives. We only recommend finding a good wash shop.
Accessories: The lens hood is inevitable. It is also better to have a spirit level. A small tripod and a light meter.
Photo bag: The double shoulder photo bag is suitable for holding more things.
