In Shanxi, there is a kind of pasta called porridge. The method is simple, and the taste is wonderful. However, this simple pasta is popular in a wide area, has a long history, and has a profound cultural accumulation.
How wide is the area allocated?
To Qilu in the east, to Shaanxi and Gansu in the west, to Bashang in the north, to Hubei and Anhui in the south, most of China is smelled with rags. Due to different regional dialects and different food materials, the name varies from place to place.
In Shanxi, you can eat stir fried pork until you reach Niangzi Pass in the east, the Yellow River in the west, Fenglingdu in the south, and Yanmen Pass in the north. Celery, shepherd's purse, lettuce leaves, wormwood, alfalfa, chrysanthemum, spinach, eggplant, pepper, beans, potatoes, and even elm, locust flower, willow bud, and broussonetia papyrifera can almost be used to make rotten seeds.
Shandong is called steamed vegetables; Henan calls steamed dishes with flour; Hebei is tired of complaining; Inner Mongolia is called Bulangzi, and some places are called 圐圙; Gansu, Qinghai, Ningxia and other northwest regions are called "Tangtangfan"; Beijing and Tianjin are called puppets. Shaanxi has many names. Since ancient times, Guanzhong has been rich in wheat, which is called wheat rice; North Shaanxi is suitable for producing potatoes, so it is called potato wiping; There are also places that call for vegetable bumps and potato balls.
Do southerners eat this pasta?
When people in Anhui eat it, they call it the flower bud of the tree.
People in Hubei also eat. yes How can the 4600 year old Tianmen Steamed Dish be short of this food? There was a local legend in Tianmen: after Wang Mang replaced the Han Dynasty, natural disasters were frequent and the people could not make a living. Farmers rose up one after another. Later, when the peasant uprising army was trapped in food shortage, they milled rice into flour, mixed wild vegetables and steamed them in steamer, which turned the inedible wild vegetables into delicious food, called "green forest vegetables", which was later the steamed rice dishes.
How old is the history of corruption?
The recorded history can be traced back to the Song and Yuan Dynasties at least. Liu Kezhuang's Cry for Sun Jifan in the Southern Song Dynasty: "There is a chrysanthemum spring for offering sacrifices, and wheat rice is not needed for the Tomb Sweeping Day." Lu You's "Drama Singing Village": "The sound of warblers is beautiful where the sun is strong, and the wheat rice of Suile's family is fragrant." Zhu Xi also wrote a poem "Wheat Rice": "The onion soup is suitable for wheat and rice, and the onion supplements the rice in the field to cure hunger." The "wheat rice" in the poem is to uproot rotten. Some people also said that the history of this kind of pasta should be earlier than the historical records.
In the Ming and Qing dynasties, Yuan Mei's Suiyuan Food List and Xue Baochen's Vegetarian Brief are famous vegetarian recipes, recording the practices of hundreds of vegetable dishes. Xue Baochen said in "A Brief Introduction to Vegetarianism": "The people of Qin Dynasty used vegetables and dry noodles to add oil and salt, and then mixed them together to make steamed food, which is called wheat rice."
How deep is the cultural accumulation of corruption?
Shanxi people say that this kind of pasta originated in Shanxi, and there are historical data as evidence: the third part of the Yuan Dynasty's anonymous drama "Village Music Hall": "Later Xing, the same husband asked me to ask questions in the prison, and asked your mother to make some cool tiredness." Also, "What kind of food is it? (Lai Eryun) He He Fan. (Zhengmo Yun) He He Fan Folder with your mother. (Lai Eryun) Nonsense! Eat it. What kind of cool tiredness?" It is Xihe County of Fenzhou (now in Luliang area) that wants to eat "Hehe Fan" and "Cool tiredness" in the play People.
Shaanxi people also said that this kind of pasta was invented by their ancestors, The ancient name "Maifan" is a clear proof. The book "Jijiu Chapter", written in 40 BC, has a record of "bread, wheat, rice and sweet bean soup". Maifan, originally referred to steamed rice with wheat grains. This kind of rice is not only rough in taste, but also difficult to digest, so Yan Shigu, a Tang Dynasty scholar, said: "Wheat, rice and bean soup are the food of savages and farmers." It means that poor people eat wheat. Although this kind of wheat rice is not the same as today's wheat rice mixed with noodles, the name "wheat rice" has been preserved in Guanzhong, Shaanxi.
When and where did it originate? It's really a bit unclear. Wheat and rice, or ragged rice, are our Chinese food culture.
Zhang Wenping
