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People's Art Review: "One Food for a Thousand Years", exploring thousands of Chinese cuisines

2023-08-30 10:48:47    Source: People's Daily Online - Viewpoint Channel


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The Chinese food culture has a long history. After thousands of years of polishing, the plain pots and pans are full of Chinese life. One city has one food and one taste. In a thousand tastes, people can experience all kinds of human behaviors, and the seasons of separation and reunion. The second season of "One Meal for a Thousand Years" goes out of the studio, faces the invitation from ten provinces and fifty cities across the country in the form of "receiving orders", goes to the land of China, customizes historical and beautiful dishes for all regions, and creates golden food cards.

Suizhou mushroom, Dongpo elbow, Songyang braised salted chicken, Tongliao beef jerky, Xuzhou Yangfang Tibetan fish, Altay hand grabbed mutton There are abundant food on the land of China, and each place has its own unique flavor. In this season's program, the guests and partners took the mobile kitchen "General Station Taotie" to Wujiang, Jiangsu, the first stop city. Wujiang River is located on the bank of Taihu Lake and the bank of the canal. It guards the root of Wu River and embraces the tail of Yue River. Its distribution of lakes, rivers, pools and bays is full of water systems, which breeds unique cuisine. Bai Juyi said, "When he visited several places in the south of the Yangtze River, he remembered Wu Jiangkua most". The silk and soft words of Wu Nong here also became local memories that he, Lu You, Su Shi, Tang Bohu and others could not forget.

People are like food. Food is always connected with people. According to the records of local delicacies in ancient historical books, members of the "Cuisine Family" have chosen three local specialties of Wujiang: "Yunlin Goose" in Yuan Mei's Suiyuan Food List, "Jinji Yuchou" in Qimin Yaoshu, and "Rain Leek Clam" in Dong Xiaowan's Lian Yan. These dishes all have special requirements for ingredients and processes. Take the last one as an example, "cooking clams" should choose leeks after the rain, and white shrimp should choose fresh ones after the Qingming Festival. In the exploration of these ancient books and dishes, and in the journey of looking for raw materials for making dishes, One Meal for a Thousand Years is pioneering and innovative, creating new dishes, linking the "food" of contemporary culture and the "good talk" of historical allusions, telling the regional culture and humanistic value behind the food, so that the city can fully display its background in this feast.

When introducing the famous dish "Jinji Yuchuan" recorded in the ancient book "Qimin Yaoshu", it was mentioned that one of the ingredients in Bahe Jifen was called "white plum". The ancients picked the plum from the tree, marinated it with salt first, and then dried it in the sun. In this way, the plum was saturated with salt and suffused with salt crystals, so it was called white plum. This salting method is not only used for processing food materials, but also a good way to store food materials. In an age without today's complex craftsmanship and exquisite technology, the Chinese ancients condensed their wisdom with the most primitive methods and the most simple ingredients, such as bad drunkenness, smoking, air drying and other ancient methods. That is the taste of salt, the taste of sunshine, the taste of time, the taste of three meals and one night for generations, and the Chinese people's understanding of the taste of the world and the life of fireworks.

In the latest program, "TV Station Taotie" said goodbye to Wujiang, instead of leaving immediately for the next destination, it stopped for a while to consult famous chefs and improve the cooking skills of guests. Only because of the restoration and respect for historical cuisine, "food" in "beautiful food" is the most important core. Master chef Liu Qiang has demonstrated many skills, such as braised Wuchang fish, shredded meat on balloons, boiled sugar and pulled out the meteor shower, and fried eggs turning over the spoon. From listening to the knife, sharpening the knife to cutting, one knife is straight and the other is reverse. He can flower Wuchang fish slices with a length of about 30 to 40 centimeters and then pull them to one meter. He can also cut the meat slices into thin threads on balloons, achieving a combination of superb skills, beauty, and taste, It fully demonstrates the Chinese cuisine's emphasis on "eating delicacies without satiety", as well as the boldness and carefulness in treating food, just like the courage to talk with nature when salting white plum. People, with their own understanding of food, seek inspiration in constant practice and trial.

Since ancient times, it has been said that "food is the most important thing for the people". However, Chinese food is never just a tool to fill the stomach. What is contained in a dish is the continuity of culture and the intersection and collision of human emotions. A steaming meal of dumplings and a bowl of Yuanxiao during the Spring Festival are the reunion of the whole family and the missing of others; A dish eaten by a stranger when he is alone in a foreign country is often used by people to shorten the distance between his hometown and other countries. Homesickness, childishness, diligence, perseverance, love, separation, love in one taste, happiness hidden in food, let us look forward to the next stop of "Zongtai Taotie", and look forward to more Chinese food that is on the tip of the tongue and in the mind.

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